Athens History Holiday April 2008

Sun. March 30th    Heathrow Terminal 5

A fine effort by everyone to meet the 0730 deadline, especially as the clocks have changed, although we are still wondering if we’ve allowed enough time, given the ‘teething’ problems of the newly opened Terminal 5.    In fact, we arrive very early and check in, in no time at all – could have something to do with the fact that most of us have put our faith in hand luggage. The security only throws up the odd small problem – it seems Hibiki's flute could be mistaken for a gun, so it has to travel with a ‘responsible’ group leader. No matter, the flight is perfectly on time, not a bag goes missing - big sigh of relief!  - and we are soon speeding through the much improved post-Olympic roads of Athens to our very central hotel – not the most salubrious area admittedly, although hardly the ‘chantytown’ (sic) referred to in one student’s evaluation.

Mon.  March 31st    Orientation tour of Athens, Acropolis and Philippapou

The traditional history holiday has struck again.  Pleasant sunshine and around 20 for the seventh time running (and the streets were flooded only a few days ago).  Our local guide, Vasilis, takes us around the streets past the University to Syntagma Square and the Parliament building, where we arrive just in time to witness the changing of the guard, where Ezvones (soldiers) dressed in traditional costume including pompoms on the feet, exaggeratedly goose-step, which has Mrs Daly purring, and vowing to emulate in an assembly. Then on past the statue of Lord Byron (friend to the Greeks in the War of Independence) and the Temple of Olympian Zeus (with its fine Hadrian Arch).  It now seems one of the city’s many stray dogs (christened ‘Borf’ after a nearby advert) has been adopted by the party, and stays with us all the way up to the Acropolis.

This world famous site does not disappoint and is well brought to life by Mr Burden and the guide, who take us expertly past the Propylaeum, Temple of Athene Nike , Partheon and Erektheion.

After a fine Taverna lunch by the Agora, we walk up to Philippapou, with fine views to the west over Salamis (against the backdrop of which Mr Burden recounts the story of the epic Greek naval victory over Xerxes’ Persians in 480BC) and to the east over the Acropolis.

Tues. April 1st    National Archaeology Museum and Delphi Day One

An early start to reach the Musuem by opening time, and enjoy such treasures as the death mask of Agamemnon.  Then we are off for the first of two days at Delphi which, for many is the highlight of the whole holiday.  We check into a hotel in the centre with stunning if not cosmogonic (a cult word for this trip) views of the mountains, and then have a breathtaking walk to the lower site, where Mr Burden explains the origins and procedures for the oracles, giving us the story of King Croesus (who forgot to ask which Empire would be destroyed when he went to war), allowing us to display our athletic talents in the gymnasium (training ground) and showing us the Kalastrian Spring.

Back at the hotel where the entertainment is provided by a pianist who has a repertoire of ‘old’ (ie Beatles) songs, which excite the staff, to the bemusement of the children.

Wed. April 2nd    Delphi Day Two : Museum and Upper Site

After a slightly ‘Spartan’ breakfast – more than made up for by lunch later – we head for the magnificent Delphi Museum , where Mr Burden is again the oracle.  Another local guide, Christina, with a relaxed manner takes us through selected objects which include a sphinx (Greek sphinxes have male heads unlike Egyptian ones) and the astonishingly lifelike bronze charioteer.  Then we visit the upper site, including the Temple of Apollo with its two very apposite inscriptions ‘Know Thyself’ and ‘Nothing in Excess’ and learn how all oracles need to be interpreted by the responsibility of the hearer.  This soon sparks off a wide-ranging debate within Year 8 about philosophy, religion and politics, where the students appear in Plato’s Academy mode.  On a more junior level, the topic for discussion seems to be ‘Do clouds go around mountains?’

After lunch and shopping, where yet another search party has to be sent out for Oli , we return to Athens .

Thurs. April 3rd    Ferry trip to the island of Aegina

We wake up to pouring rain not ideal for an island trip, but true to form, the sun is already shining by the time we have reached Piraeus on the underground.  After a slight accident in which Harry D appears to be testing how many fingers you can get between a door and its hinges, we have a smooth crossing and then visit the old town of Aegina , with its temple to Apollo, superbly located on the headland between two bays.  After lunch, there is time for a paddle,   shopping and ice cream.

Dinner this evening is at a grill restaurant, courtesy of Varsia's mother, and we then head back to hotel for a quiz.  Phili Sansom wins with only two wrong answers and there are prizes for Clea , Hugo  and James.

Fri. April 4th    Kerimakou and return flight

Once we’ve packed and collected the last of our pocket money from Madame Grimal and been medicated by Mrs Etheridge and Mrs Daly, we have a half morning to explore the famous Athens cemetery, although the name actually derives from the Kerimakos (makers of pottery, or ceramics).  Here we can see the ceremonial entrance into the Pompeion via the Sacred and Dipylon gates where the wall of Themistocles was established after the Persian Wars.  A fine museum and impressive sculptures of a bull and a pair of young soldiers vie for our attention with the tortoises and tadpoles.  The whole is fittingly rounded off by a stirring rendition of Pericles’ funeral oration, laying down the principles of Athenian political, cultural and philosophical greatness.

Then it’s back to the hotel, and drive to airport for a delayed but good flight.  On touchdown we still have to wait for 25 minutes because the ‘person driving the steps to the plane has not been trained’.  Irritating, but could have been much worse.

Robert Henderson

(Author: Robert Henderson)

See feedback for this article

---